Flirty little sister of Prada, Miu Miu always sneaks in with an attention-grabbing collection. The dresses were solid in their fabric but slyly cut away to reveal parts of the body, under the bust, into the shoulder with a scalloped edge and a lot of leg. A -line skirts and square buckled shoes indicated the swinging sixties. Even the bows were a bit more rigid in structure, as were the skirts and shoulders. All was still pretty though, never slutty. There was scalloped edging with beautiful silhouettes from the tailoring, and embellishment on the accessories as well as the pieces themselves.
Dolly Jones @ vogue.com also commenting on the sixties and colour in her report: â€œMohair covered dresses, with giant pockets and matching gloves, were a hardier version of this look completing a collection that, for all its playful Sixties references, had futuristic appeal too. Stripes of orange and lilac on the modelsâ€™ eyes and shots of colour in their shiny ponytails made this as modern and original - and fun â€“ as Miuccia Prada gets.â€
The dark palette of heavily embellished dresses, coats and belts, had a colour injection from orange, cream, and lilac. All runway favourites this season but this was a show on how to use colour shots to its best abilityâ€“Ms MacGibbon please take note.
Flirty is one thing and then there is full on raunchy. That is what came out first with the HermÃ¨s show. Lily Cole in a leather catsuit â€“ could this be? Should one check the ticket? Yes JPG had taken the Avengers theme (Brits are good at getting the credit for the 60â€™s) and gone to town with bowler hats and umbrellas. It was all very James Bond â€“ with a super dollop of panache. This is HermÃ¨s after all: luxurious fabrics from start to finish.
Tailoring is the key to this collection, and it is what JPG does rather well. Â Alex Jury at SHOWstudio commented:
â€œThe Avengers segued seamlessly into James Bond themes, for suited-and-block-heel-booted models in supple leather takes on the three-piece suit, luxe cashmere overcoats and even umbrellas, nattily kitted-out with miniature Kelly bags leather-wrapped to the handle. All terribly witty, if, granted, more than a little Inspector Gadget. The theme to 'A Clockwork Orange' roared as Gaultier sent out a few variations on pretty kilt suits in Hermes orange (get the joke?) and towards the end those bowlers became toppers for a series of leather trenches belted over crinolines.â€
All underlining the point that JPG loves a good gimmick.
Not so good was the leopard taffeta gown under a leather coat â€“ buttery, delicious leather but nonetheless, if Lily does not make it work, how on earth are the non model wearers going to cope?