Too much to tell and so little time

New York fashion week has had it all weather wise, sunshine and showers and apparently if the fashion pack stayed until next week, they may see some snow just to complete the Seasons. This has been playing havoc with the front row dress, but being the true professionals they are, they have not been wrong footed. From thigh high boots, leather shorts, plenty of camel - naturally as the colour of the Season, and the staple sunglasses. However probably the most famous sunglasses wearer, Anna Wintour, has been spotted without them on occasion this week, mon dieu! On the other side, what has been coming down the runway started very paired down and clean, white must be the new camel, but is reaching new colour and print levels as the week progresses.

Thakoon displayed a crisply structured show, which had fluid silk pieces and a touch of over sized hooks and eye fastenings. Lots of elements but I loved it. Loose, fitted, sheer and printed pieces came in an array of chambray blues, lilac and obligatory white. The review from Refinery 29 sums it beautifully :

"Surprise, surprise! Another designer frosts the runway with white for spring. Thakoon's spring 2011 collection was no exception to the ongoing trend of the week, opening with a pristine asymmetrical jacket detailed with buttons, straps, and textured layers. Tailored whites led into metallic purple snake skin, soothing chambray, periwinkle, and an enticing sweep of sheers dotted with country shades and tiny floral buds. Our favorite Thakoon trademark was well represented—garments that make your head spin when you imagine what the pattern must have looked like (complex coats with folds galore). But alongside those stunners were effortless, elegant ensembles—such as a set of billowy, floor-grazing gowns in frothy fabrics—that seemed to glide down the catwalk and back, leaving behind another successful season for Thakoon's track record."

source: wwd.com photographer: Thomas Iannaccon

Sticking to the theme of fluid and crisp was Mrs Beckham. Showing in a town house, the presentation, with her now, trademark narration as the girls came in was very civilised, no scramble for seats. Not the first designer this season to be showing new lines of accessories amongst the dresses. (Whispers on the street are the Brian Atwood shoes were especially commissioned to match the colour of her Rolex). The reviews have been favourable and not unfairly. This season the style is a little looser, but don't be fooled into thinking this will hide anything. Parachute silk moves and clings to show your body outline!

Using the live streaming from StyleList, I was able to concentrate fully and watch the Alexandar Wang show. Seeing the show unfold, the girls came out into a vast space and  hanging above them appear to be a giant bug or space age creation. The pieces were a light relief from his usual dark side. Again pale colours were the main stay, as was the draping and free flowing fabrics. The metallic touches across the collection re-enforced the futuristic themes, but the talk was on construction, paint in the hair, building and paint patterned prints, the metallic was in fact a reference to duct tape.

source: wwd.com photographer: Thomas Iannaccon

His own explanation quoted by WWD:  "From darkness comes light. Or in Alexander Wang’s world, from fall’s dark opium dens and Wall Street Goth girls comes a season of optimism. “I wanted to explore a purity and honesty,” said Wang, preshow. “As you can see, there’s not one hint of black.” And in that manner, he joins the myriad of other designers thus far who are working that buoyant and lightened-up mood on the runways. The point of difference here, chez Wang, is one that’s uniquely his: an added inspiration in construction. “I’m in a constant state of construction,” he joked. To clarify, the designer just added a new floor to his TriBeCa offices, is currently renovating a newly gutted apartment nearby and, of course, has been working on his first retail unit on Grand Street, set to open later this year."

Other shows that ventured to the clean cut were Lacoste and Preen, both worth a peek.

Opening image by uli holz