Looking backwards to go forwards. This is how Oscar de la Renta explained his influences for the Autumn Winter 10 show. Geometric lines from Art Deco and the fluidity from the Art Nouveau period provided the base. Geometry has been a common theme for many shows so far this season. Going back to the clinical ease of the line. Straight no nonsense crisp shirts â€“ mainly white, duffle coats, box jackets and slick tailoring.Â Whilst the shapes may have been very structured the fabrics were not so. This is the fluid bit. It brought a very real softness, as is needed; otherwise a fabric such as coarse wool could well ruin the effect.
There is a fine line between utilitarian sportswear and cozy sensuality and Michael Kors has found it as Suzy Menkes at the Tribune mentions. To me it underlines my thoughts above in a refined and eloquent way!
Tactile and the touch are important to make these pieces less masculine. Proezena Schuler managed this with a flash of flesh mid thigh between stockings and leather skirts and cropped jumpers
Ralph Lauren, having looked way back last season at the Depression, went vintage. Back to his best with a hint of Edwardian, according to Suzy Menkes at the Herald Tribune. Mixing the tailoring with the layers of the musty floral chiffon layers, velvets and certain darkness. Ralph Lauren is still a force when mixing in elements of the masculine for the ladies. Strong defined lines romancing the feminine side. A fine relationship.