From the first day of shows in Paris, severe was a word that comes to mind. Leather, dark palettes and hard silhouettes appeared to dominate. Gareth Pugh was never going to become girly overnight, after all leather is his trademark but some of his models were positively deathly looking, but then the light began to shine through in the form of Dries Van Noten.
Always an eclectic mix and this season no different, practically every decade has been represented here. The 50â€™s prom skirt and dress to the military sleeveless coat with a sweat top underneath â€“ very 80â€™s. The use of so many fabrics could be lost but they work. And so does the pile of prints all in one look. This could be encouraging some pretty dire outfit choices in the coming months but fingers crossed people see sense.
Sarah Mower at Style.com was quick to praise the collection by saying: â€œThe success was that he integrated all those elements in such simple, wearable ways that didn't scream "fashion." In almost every silhouette, there was a juxtaposition of something grand with something streetâ€
I loved the long silky column dress with the casual over-sized sweat top thrown on top, never mind anyone else, this will give me freedom to dig out my sloppy joe, all in the name of fashion you understand.
Rue du Mail and Damir Doma both produced offerings on the first day as well. Metallicâ€™s and dresses and sombre draping, respectively. Short and concise shows which displayed the technical skills of each house.