30 Apr 2010, Posted by Emily Jerman in Fashion News, No Comments. Tagged Avengers, AW '10, daywear, Giambattista Valli, kitten heels, large hats, Left Bank, medallions, Paris Fashion week, Pilati, sling backs, Stella McCartney, tweed, Twiggy, YSL
Can you get chicer? Is it a word? Well I would like to make it one. As the days roll on in Paris the collections are defining this term each and every time. Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent was sending out the 70’s YSL girl (literally in medallion form) but with twists of updates. Wide legged, high waisted trousers, large floppy hats – classic Left bank Chic. There was a look of the church tucked in there – heavily denied – but quite obvious to me and to many others, who saw the habits and capes draped over the girls.
“It’s about protection, And partly, an homage to YSL and the rigorous tailleur” said Pilati after the show. Talking about the plastic coverings and insertions, and the medallion tribute to the silhouette of 70’s YSL girls. He must have been looking across the road to where the retrospective of YSL will be occurring.
Skipping along to the next venue, where we meet Stella McCartney. Her daywear is so accomplished that it really is quite difficult to fault. I have PS Clients who have bought her skirts in three or four colours as the fit is just so perfect. This Season is not so different but the clean and simple lines are beautifully constructed. If a busy businesswoman viewed this collection, you can bet that she would buy 80% of the day wear, as it would work in real life. Each piece looks like you would want to wear it – although you have to have the legs for Stella’s tailoring; she does like to show a bit of flesh south side!
Back further in time we go – to the 60’s where Giambattista Valli planted himself at the beginning of his show. A camel (naturally) coat, cocoon in shape (popular in NY all those weeks ago) and sling back kitten heels. Very Avengers. Then came the little suits in tweed, over sized sunglasses and I thought Twiggy would appear at any minute. Textures remained apparent with the feathering, velvet and chiffons that featured later. Sheer fabrics came aplenty, and will have to be slightly modified for the Clients, however the show stopping finale pieces will be fought over. For an explosive entrance (or exit) that is one clever designer.
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